Histories: Trempealeau Co. Historical Accounts:
"History of Trempealeau County Wisconsin, 1917":
Chapter 8:
Beaver Creek Valley
-As transcribed from pages 79 - 83
Beaver Creek Valley. According to Winnebago tradition,
Joseph Roque, a famous Indian guide and trapper, erected a cabin on
Beaver Creek near the present village of Galesville, possibly soon
after the War of 1812. His son, Augustin, likewise a guide and trapper,
is said to have built a cabin and spent a winter hunting in the same
locality about 1820.
But to Americans Beaver Creek Valley was not opened for settlement
until after the purchase of the Indian rights to all this territory, in
1837, and even then it was several years before an actual settlement
took place. James A. Reed, the first permanent settler in Trempealeau
County, hunted and trapped along Beaver Creek as far back as 1840, and
in 1843, in company with Willard Bunnell and Antoine Grignon, explored
the head-waters of the valley.
While the fur trade played an important role in the opening of
Trempealeau County for settlement, but few of the trappers remained to
till the soil after the fur had been gathered, but pushed on westward
to the unsubdued wilderness.
The agriculturist who came to find a permanent home in the fertile
valleys of Trempealeau County was the natural successor of the fur
trader, for here there was no pinery to bring the lumberman, as in
other portions of the State.
The autumn of 1851 saw the first Beaver Creek settler arrive in the
person of Abram Trepena, who came up from Racine County to look for a
homestead. Mr. Trepena came from Oswego, New York, to Racine in
1848, and had resided in the southern part of the State since that time.
There was a vast amount of unoccupied land in this section in that
early day, and the homeseeker could take his choice of locations. After
looking over the country thoroughly Mr. Trepena finally selected a
quarter-section of land in the Beaver Creek Valley about a mile and a
half southwest of the present village of Galesville. He then returned
to Racine and in the fall of 1862 in company with his family and John
Hess came north. They drove two yoke of oxen and carried all of their
household goods in two immigrant wagons. On the night of October 11
they arrived at their destination and went into camp, but before they
had hardly settled for the night a snow storm of unusual severity came
up and continued with unabated fury until morning, and when the new
settlers awoke they found the ground covered to a depth of ten inches
with freshly-fallen snow. This was indeed a wintry greeting for the
pioneers, but with dauntless courage they went to work and arranged
their camp for the winter; protecting it with wagon boxes, and making
as comfortable a home as a tent could afford.
In the spring the men began the construction of a log house which was
completed and occupied by the first of May. They also cleared and brake
eight acres of land, and the crop raised during the season indicated
the fertility of the Beaver Creek soil.
In 1853 Judge George Gale of La Crosse purchased about two thousand
acres of land, including the present location of Galesville, with the
water power on Beaver Creek; and, in January, 1854, he procured from
the state legislature, the organization of the new county of
Trempealeau, with the location of the county seat at Galesville, and at
the same time obtained a charter for a university, to be located at
that place. In June of the same year the village plot of Galesville was
laid out, and subsequently the flour mills were erected. A. H.
Armstrong was the first man to put up a building in the new village and
Ryland Parker opened the first grocery store, keeping it in conjunction
with a hotel.
One of the first to settle in the township of Gale after Galesville was
conceived was B. F. Heuston, who had settled in Trempealeau in 1851.
During the winter of 1853 he moved into a house which he had built
about half a mile south of what afterward became the site of the county
courthouse at Gale. In the fall of 1853, or early in 1854, Peter and
George Uhle settled in Crystal Valley, three miles from Galesville.
John Dettinger also settled near-by in that year.
Galesville grew rapidly, and in a short time new settlers were turning
their eyes to the upper Beaver Creek region. The land seekers were
looking for a farming section, and it is not strange that the rolling
lands of this fertile valley attracted their attention.
As early as May, 1855, John Cance settled in what is now the town of
Ettrick. Cance came from Glasgow, Scotland, to America in 1854, and
remained in Jersey City, N. J., a short time, when he decided to move
west to Freeport, Ill. He remained in Freeport all winter, and in the
spring of 1855 he started for Trempealeau County, Wisconsin, and on May
25 arrived at Beaver Creek. His brother-in-law, Andrew C. Purvis came
with him, and the two men took up land and selected suitable building
place within a few days of their arrival.
In 1856 Charley White and Mike Cullity settled in the valley, and in
1857-58 Robert Cance and Alexander Cance arrived and located land
adjoining their brother's farm. During the next few years Dan Kennedy,
Thomas Wall, John Mahony, Darby Whalen, John Lynch and James Corcoran
joined the Beaver Creek settlers.
The first settlers in what is now known as North Beaver Creek were Iver
Orianson (Torblaa) and Iver Knutson (Syse), who came in 1857.
In 1858 K. K. Hallanger, Amund Olsen, R. Richelson, Thomas and Nels
Herreid, Ole Skaar, Simon Nelson, T. R. Thompson, N. B. Henderson, Lars
Hanson, Ole Ellingson, Orians Totblaa, Ole Dale, Erick Tronsen and Nels
Oakland came. Anve Olsen, Arne Arneson, Torkel Gunderson and Torkel
Halderson came in 1859, and Knudt Hagestad in 1860.
The first settlers in the French Creek district were Peter A. Hogden,
John A.. Hogden and Andrew A. Hogen, who came in 1859. Ole Gilbertson
came in 1860, and the same year Gilbert Nelson and Hans Johnson moved
into the South Beaver Creek region.
When a postoffice was established in the new settlement and John Cance
received the appointment of postmaster, he turned to his native land
for an appropriate name for the office. He was a great admirer of
Scott's works, and in Marmion introduction to canto second appears the
following couplet:
"The scenes are desert now and bare,
Where flourished
once a forest fair,"
and again, further along in the same canto, mention is made of
"pathless Ettrick." According to a foot note in Marmion, Ettrick Forest
was a mountainous region anciently reserved for the pleasure of the
royal chase. The game preserve was known far and wide throughout
Scotland as Ettrick Forest or Ettrick. And so John Cance chose this
ancient Scotch name for the new postoffice, and when the town was
organized at the first town meeting held in Cance's residence April 17,
1863, the name Ettrick was again chosen.
Settlers poured into the valley rapidly during the next ten years, and
though markets were distant, the slow, but sure, ox team hauled the
farm produce that brought a harvest of gold to the hardy pioneers.
L. L. Grinde of Galesville many years afterward recalled many incidents
of pioneer life in upper Beaver Creek, where he settled in the fall of
1860. Speaking of that period, he said, "Many of the early settlers
lived in dug-outs - just holes hurrowed in the side of a hill or bank,
and they remained in these cave dwellings until they were able to build
log houses. Often two families would work together on a log structure
and when it was completed would occupy it jointly until circumstances
were such that another log cabin could be built. Markets at that time
were La Crosse, Sparta and Trempealeau, and it took several days to
make the round trip. What was called speculator land could be bought in
the valley then for five dollars an acre, and there was still
considerable government land which could be taken by pre-emption."
Cornelius Lynch of Ettrick told of his first visit to Beaver Creek in
1859. "A number of settlers were living here then," said Lynch, "in
their log houses, but a comparatively small amount of land was being
cultivated. There was an abundance of game here at that time, such as
deer, wolves and bear and the prairie chickens, pigeons, native
pheasants and quail."
Nora Cullity, who was born in Galesville September 22, 1855, and
reputed to be the first child born in Beaver Creek Valley related
experiences of the early settlers. Our nearest neighbors, she said,
were John Cance and Dan Kennedy, and neighbors were appreciated in the
sparsely settled country, for it was sometimes necessary for a family
to borrow flour sufficient to last until they could get to the distant
market. It was customary to change work in the pioneer day, and people
turned out to help at a house or barn raising or in threshing time the
men generally helped each other and the women were as eager to lend a
hand at the quilting bee.
"I have often heard mother tell of watching the wolves on the hills
through the chinks in the log house as she sat knitting by the
fireside, and their howl often broke the white silence of a wintry
night with a startling suddenness."
What changes have taken place in this valley in the last sixty years.
The dugout was soon obliterated and the log house that took its place,
though it stood for years, has long since faded into oblivion and made
way for the frame house, which in turn has been succeeded by the modern
pressed brick residence. There are some of the old-time frame houses
left in the valley, but no log cabin remains to mark the pioneer
epoch-no log school house lingers by the way. No savage war cry has
echoed from these hills since the days of Decorah, but of a summer
evening one can hear the farmer boy calling the cattle home, and the
wildest sound in all the broad valley is the bay of the watch dog.
The large valley, whose length is approximately thirty-five miles, has
some of the most progressive farmers in the state. One may find plenty
of farms with registered stock, and with modern dwelling houses that
would grace the residence section of any city, and then the splendid
barns and other farm buildings are in accord with the dwellings. And
one will be surprised with the equipment, which is the best that money
can obtain, and consists of electric lights, water works, sanitary
feeding stalls, the silo and all of the very best and latest farm
machinery.
What early settler ever dreamed of all these modern improvements? They
had not even the shadow of a dream that approached the reality.
Looking over the names in this locality one is struck with varied human
activities, remote and present, which they suggest: The trappers'
paradise, Beaver Creek, so named on account of abundance of beaver in
its waters in former times; French Creek and Frenchville, names that
point back to the days of Rocque, the trapper and trader, who built a
cabin near the present Galesville in 1820; Iduna, a name taken from one
of the characters in Norse mythology; Ettrick, the ancient Scotch name,
and Hegg, which brings to mind the fame of our state in the Civil War;
Galesville, which suggests the sturdy character of that man whose brain
felt into the future; the sentinel peak, Decorah, named from an Indian
chief with a corrupted French name.
Over a century ago the Winnebago and Dakotas divided hunting ground in
the Beaver Creek territory. A century has fled since Decorah stood on
his famous peak and watched his braves battle with the Chippewa, and
sixty-one years have passed since John Cance came into the valley and
built his log cabin, thatching the roof with wild grass so that it
resembled the low thatched cottages of far away Scotland.
In the years to come no period of American history will be filled with
more romance and hardy adventure than the heroic pioneer age, nor
fraught with greater interest, for on this rough hewn foundation our
national character has been developed.