Ozaukee County Documents

This document is part of The Wisconsin Pioneer Experience -University of Wisconsin Digital Collections.

This house was on this year's Stone House Tour June, 2008 Dr. Theodore Hartwig Home 1863 W64 N758 Washington Avenue, Cedarburg was home to Cedarburg’s beloved first physician, Dr. Theodore Hartwig and his family. The house has a floor plan which included a waiting area and office for Dr. Hartwig’s medical practice.

Theodore E.F. Hartwig, Letters, 1846 and1851 (WHS) - Two typewritten translations of letters, written by Dr. Theodore E.F. Hartwig, Cedarburg, Wisconsin, September 25, 1846 and November 21, 1851, to hisfamily in Germany describing his trip to the United States by sailing vessel, railroad,and lake steamer to Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and describing Cedarburg and Milwaukee.30 pages of typed translations from the original German.

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The following is a translation of a letter written in German by Dr. Theodore E. F.Hartwig to his father and step-mother. This manuscript was found among the doctor'spapers and preserved by his daughter, Mrs. Ida Hartwig Carstens, and his grand-daughter,Mrs. Agatha Carstens Maley. Since the manuscript was not signed it is either a copyor perhaps an unfinished original which for some reason was not mailed. Mrs. Maleycan vouch for its authenticity.

Cedarburg (Wis) September 25, 1846
Precious Father and good Ida*:

At last, for the present at least, I have entered the haven of rest, so that I maywrite you in peace. I have for that matter, written you once previously, but thatmay have been a fine scrawl because during the first days after I left the ship,I was too nervous and spent to be able to write a letter. Now, therefore, I willtell you, with more calmness and understanding aboutmy journey by water and by landeven if I am (as you will know) not the best of letter writers.

I had not imagined that my parting and farewell from you dear ones would be halfas painful to me as it was in reality and at this moment, dear father, as I writeto you and let my thoughts go to you and the family circle I am overwhelmed withthe greatest homesickness, that I have had in all the intervening time. I had topause because the yearning for you all, and the realization of the thousands of milesthat separate us, overwhelmed me, and I have lived through a truly bitter hour. NowI feel strong again and seek to reconcile my self to the unalterable.

Bertha will have told you about the journey from Frankenberg to Cassel. I have partiallyforgotten about it because of what followed. I would gladly have remained two orthree days longer in Urf, because it appealed greatly to me and also because I wouldthen have seen Louis. On my arrival at Cassel, I was received in a friendly mannerat Nobrandts, where I spent several enjoyable days, partly at Gerbers, partly atSan Souci. I then had to make a side trip with Carl Kuchenbecker through the Senifartswaldto Weisshutte in order to see Minchen Kuchenbecker once more, and carry out severalof Hugo's instructions.

Through the good offices of Hartwig, I received at Barenfeld's in Cassel, exchangeon New York which pleased me greatly because thereby all troubles and worries aboutthe steamer, and also in Bremen, were relieved. Wednesday evening, June 10, I travelledon the omnibus to Munden.

I tried to pass the time as pleasantly as possible, and with fairly good success,since I visited a beer garden, the so-called Andreschen Berggarten, which has a verybeautiful setting -- not only real good beer but also what please me more, a grandpiano on which my fingers danced to my heart's content. The landlord, who had eitherheard only bunglers or had no understanding of music, whatever, declared emphaticallythat I was a good player, and after I had sung a little song for him, he would notdepart from my side. Along with this I ate my dinner and enjoyed the beer which wasreally veery good, and when i asked, in the evening, what my bill might be, I receivedthe following answer, "I consider that it has been a great pleasure to me tohave had you here; you have given me such a happy day as I have not had for a longtime. Should you pass this way again, do not forget to visit me." In spite ofall my remonstrances, he would accept nothing and rather than hurt his feelings Iresigned my self to my fate. We bade each other a hearty farewell and I returnedto my hotel.

I had had a happy day and thought of you all, particularly of you dear Ida. Whatyou would say were I to tell you of my brilliant performance on the piano at Munden-- I can see you in my mind's eye, on the ottoman, smiling while father sits in theeasy-chair. How varied is the outlook of different people!

But to continue, on Friday morning I departed by steamer for Bremen. The countrysidealong the water is quite attractive, but not as beautiful as I had expected and notto be compared with the Rhine region. At four in the evening we arrived in Hameln,where we and our belongings were transferred to another steamer, on which occasionI nearly lost my overcoat, my coat, and vest, which with other things were tied ina cloth and had been left in the cabin of the ship.

The two ships lay about one-quarter of an hour apart and the things were whiskedto the other ship by wagon. I looked everywhere for my package and could not findit. The porters tell me it is already transferred and I go to the other ship, quitechagrined. When I arrive the package is likewise not there and the ship is to sailat once. I ask the captain to wait until I get my things and go galloping to theother steamer, search in great haste and finally find the package in the first cabin.Whether some one laid it there as a matter of convenience or how it happened I donot know. Now I had to run back to the other steamer laden with the heavy bundleand arrived completely exhausted just as they were casting off. One must watch withgreatest care if one does not wish to lose some of ones things.

At 7:30 that evening we arrived at Minden and tricky fate led me into a very commoninn, however, I was too tired and too ________ so I lost all desire to look aroundfor better quarters. I expected, at least to find rest in bed, from the noise andexcitement of this dump, but when I raised the bed covers I lost my appetite to makemyself more familiar with this bed so I lay down with my hunting coat for a pillowon a wooden bench with stoical indifference and with the thought that this wouldprobably happen to me frequently in America. So I slept as well as I could untilthe following morning, and returned to the ship at six o'clock, which brought meat six in the evening to the ardently desired Bremen.

Arrived there, I immediately had my things taken to the "City of Baltimore"a hotel which had been recommended to me on the boat, but did not offer much in theway of accommodations, and started out at once to find the home of Linchen Kuchenbecker.Since I could find no directory in the hotel, I went without further ado to the theater.There in the halls, I met several gentlemen and informed myself concerning Theatredirector Ritter in order that I might ask where Linchen lived. I told the gentlemanthat I was lookign for a cousin named Kuchenbecker and he dashed away and returnedin five minutes with the news that Linchen sat in the theater and the he would leadme to her. he then led me through several rooms and passage ways and I head Linchenlaughing the in the distance.

Presently we stood opposite one another, about ten paces apart, and carried on likea couple of lunatis. Linchen laughed continuously and clapped her hands and I wasno better. We we remained opposite one another and carried on in that crazy mannerfor perhaps five minutes. My guide stook there with his mouth open and I wonder whathe really thought about our mad joy. it must have given him an uncanny feeling, becausewhen we looked for him he was gone.

Now began a recital and questioning so that I did not know what to say first. Allthe old pleasures, stories, happenings, etc., were again brought forth, and I wastransported to the happy old times through Linchen's memory. I found Linchen unchanged-- the same happy child as of yore.

We then attended the theater where "Mother and Son" was played. After theshow, I learned to know Theater director Ritter an old, but very witty man whom Iliked very well. So we sat together a long time beside a good glass of Port wine,and late in the evening I went to my abode.

Next day, sunday, I had to do much running around with agent Ludering who orderedme to appear before him every two hours and then promised me something on monday.He probably did not know where his head was located because of the many emigrantswho had paid for their space but had not yet had it assigned to them. You cannotimagine what a mass of humanity this was, all awaiting departure and whose experiencewas the same as mine, because there were too few ships on hand to load them all.

Since I was at liberty on Sunday afternoon, due to the courtesy of Herr Ludering,I naturally went to Linchen's where I was invited by Herr Ritter to the Bremer Folk(Schutzenfest) shooting festival, which was being celebrated in a neighboring village.

We rode with several other actors in an omnibus, which was like Oberon's** "carriageof clouds" because one saw nothing of horses or wheels owing to the clouds ofdust which made us deaf and blind. Behind me, an actress who had lost her goldenbracelet, was mutting the most heart-rending lamentations. Ahead, I heard the drivercontinually smack his tongue and crack his whip at the horses, which, however, didnot help much becuase the unfortunate beasts had proably already made the trip adozen times. In spite of a few knocks in the ribs -- it was a great journey.

Finally we got out, walked another quarter hour in the sand and at last arrived atthe gates of the shooting festival where we had our lapel buttonholes decorated withred ribbons for which Herr Ritter paid very dearly. Here we found, in a clearingin the wood, an aggregation of grand temple-like buildings, richly decorated withflags and wreaths, drinking and dancing booths; beer, wine, and all kinds of halls;carousels, swings, organs, and many harps; the marksmen in green smocks and greenhats, cutlass at their sides, shot and missed often; in short great preparationshad been made, but had I only seen a joyful face or any carefree happiness; the peoplewalked as if they were in a waxwork exhibition representing biblical history.

We sat in a drinking room and frank german gooseberry wine, and time hung heavy uponus pro patria until ten o'clock in the evening when we returned in the same stateof happiness as when we arrived. I have acquired great respect for a Bremer folkfestival where the privilege of wearing a red ribbon in one's button hole costs aBremer a dollar per day. That is a very costly festival for the people. But I mustcontinue.

Monday morning I had to do considerable running around to buy various things requiredfor the ocean voyage -- a woolen jacket, a straw tick, various tin utensiles, washbasin, mess kit, coffee can, cup, etc., then, too, a bottle of vinegar, a bottleof rum, several pounds of tobacco, liquors, all of which cost more money than I hadexpected. After all this business, I trotted back to my dear Herr Lüdering,who informed me, after hours of delay, that I must wait for several days. I had learnedthat my ship, the Adler, (Eagle) would go to sea with the first favorable wind, andI told him that if my ship sailed I would remain here at his expense until I foundanother ship equally as good as the Adler and that for my protection I would appealto the Senate. When I spoke thus to him he changed his manner, gave me a ticket andbegged me to bring my effects to the harbor immediately where a coating ship laywhich would take passengers and luggage to Bremerhafen gratis, and which was dueto leave within a half hour. I could not get my things there any cheaper and decidedto go to Bremerhafen by steamer on the following morning.

Then my evil star borught my land lord to me who advised me to ride on the coal shipbecause i eould probably find no space on the following morning and besides I couldride free of charge on the coal ship.

Since the fatal craft was ready to leave, i had not time to use better judgment andwent aboard (for which I had to pay dearly). Imagine a space thirty to thirty-fivefeet long and perhpas twelve feet wide, therein eighty or ninety people with alltheir early belongings, the forward deck closed, except for a small opening for enteringor leaving, add to this the presence of several boys who were scratching their headswith both hands as though they would tear themselves apart, and you can imagine theagreeable predicament I was in, which became more painful when I learned from thelone sailor that we would have to travel three days in this coop. Think I, alas,you poor head cheese (Schwartenmagen) now you're in for it!

But luckily we sat on a sand bar all Tuesday morning and I had the pleasure of oncemore setting foot on the German fatherland through the help of the sailor who fora gratuity of a few pennies rowed us in a boat to the shore. Here we exchanged allthe pennies which we still had for wheat bread, rye bread, and beer so my head cheesewhich you, Ida, packed for me, again escaped my teeth and later did me a great service.With the flow of the tide we were floating again and after continual tacking, wefinally reached and boarded the Adler on Wednesday evening, where we were receivedwith great cries of joy by the emigrants who were already aboard.

Here we had some capital fun with an emigrant, a mighty drinker who was going toAmerica to improve his circumstances, but who said he wished to have a good timebefore hand. He came aboard ship loaded over and over with bottles ofrum, then sentonce more to Bremerhaven with the sailors and returned totally drunk. Since he couldnot climb the ship's ladder, the sailors quickly produced a rope and hoisted himon the great yard arm. Here they permitted him to dangle for a quarter of an hourfor the general amusement of the crowd and then let him down through the hatch tothe middle deck during which time he was wiggling like a fish on a line.

After all my things were in the hold, I went down to the middle deck to select aberth for myself. But I shall never forget the shock which I had sight of propetiouslodging place; could I have been with you dear ones at that moment I believe I wouldnever have gotten to America. My unfavorable impression was magnified because I hadfrom Eden Trost's description expected a pleasing place belonging to me personallyand providing privacy. Instead, I found in the middle deck (that is the large spacewhich is situated under the front deck and lies half over and half under the waterand gets its light and air only from two hatches one at the front and the other at the real) all around the ship'swall, hammered together out of posts and boards bunks in double tiers one over theother, and extending on all sides presenting the following conditions. The middledeck was about seven and one-half to eight feet high, so each berth was three andone-half to four feet high, five to six feet wide and of about the same length. Inthis space, five persons had to lie next to one another.

Fortunately, I found a place in the so-called "Rivitz", one of the spearatedspaces of the middle deck where I was, at least, associated with fairly clean people,however, the bunk was no better than in the middle deck. After everything was stowedaway and arranged, we drank our first tea, which we had to get for ourselves fromthe galley, with this we received bread, the principal ingredient of which was bran,and butter which tasted quite rancid. With a heavy heart I now retired to bed, butbecause of foul air and other uncomfortable sensations, I could not get any sleepthat night.

At five the next morning a steamboat arrived which took us out to the open sea becausethere was not sufficient wind to bring us out of the Weser. We reached the open seaat about noon and again cast our anchor because it was still calm. In the afternoonthe roll of passengers was taken, which is necessary because people frequently sneakaboard without paying anything and when the ship is once on the high seas, thesestowaways must naturally be carried along.

On Friday morning a good wind finally came up half southerly and half from the side.Our ship made good headway and during the whole day we were racing with a steamerwhich could not over-take us. The wind was so steady and good that one did not noticethe least movement, and on Monday morning at four we were already in the Channelbetween Calais and Dover. We could recognize the towers of both cities quite clearly.The English coast is really charmingly beautiful -- the shore is composed entirelyof high white cliffs, and on these lie in colorful variation, glorious forests, meadows,fields, villages, cities, country homes, old ruins, and light houses; and the channelswarms with shipping of every sort and one does not know which way to turn one'sglances.

Toward afternoon the wind suddenly abated considerably and in half hour the windwas totally contrary. The weather then began to be stormy and changeable and thepassengers began to suffer.

It was now necessary to tack in order to prevent the ship from being driven backwardby the wind, so the ship lay first on one side and then on the opposite, and becauseof the waves, one to two rods high, which rolled against her sides, the ship rockedso fearfully that a land lubber could not stand on his feet. Soon the consequenceof this unaccustomed movement showed themselves in all corners. There was a retchingand groaning that one became fearly and afraid. I kept myself on the upper deck whereat first I was drenched by the spray of the beating waves, but at the same time feltreal well, and the more the ship danced the better it pleased me. This stormy rainyweather continued for eight days, and what headway we gained by ay was lost againat night, to prevent our going aground on the coast.

On the second day after the beginning of this weather, I received my first patient.In the center of the forward deck stands the big life boat which is probably nineto ten feet high, on the top of which the ship's carpenter was engaged in fasteningthe henhouses, because the ship lay on its side so that the lee side was often onlya foot above the water. The cover of the boat had become smooth and slippery fromthe rain, and the carpenter fell to the deck and had to be carried below. In thecourse of my examination, I found that he had dislocated his femur joint. The headof the femur had gone upward and was fast above the socket. I was ill at ease overthe matter, because I had never attended a setting of the upper thigh joint. However,I went quickly to work and after ten minutes of effort assisted by several sailors,I had the joy of hearing the peculiar snap which at that moment sounded better tome than the best Strauss waltz. I then laid a bandage around his pelvis and his kneesand had cold compresses applied and after several days he walked slowly about onthe forward deck.

since then I have always had something to do, but especially many tooth extractions.There was a veritable tooth ache epidemic on the ship and I extracted thirty-fiveto forty teeth. Besides I had a suppuration of the proximalpart of the left middle finger, a very easy forceps delivery, a Jew had pneumoniaa few days before our arrival, and a big fat farmer girl had an advanced case ofscurvy.

The stormy weather which I mentioned before, continued for exactly eight days andduring this entire time we had to sail around in the Channel; at last on the ninthday we received a little wind from the side and thus got out of the bedeviled channel.From then on we had alternate calm and adverse winds until two days before we reachedNew York, where we had the finest east wind.

Now I must give you a description of my mode of living in other respects. In thefirst eight or ten 9days) I usually arose at seven o'clock in the morning, then Iwent to the forward deck where I scrubbed myself thoroughly with sea water, thenI journeyed with my little coffee can to the galley to get coffee, which was heavilysweetened with sugars and a piece of ship's bread, (it consists of ground rye) withbutter, was then forced down. then one had a pipe or cigar and lounged about untiltwelve o'clock. then, if one wanted to eat something, one went again to the galleywith one's tin dishes; our food consisted alternately of salt pork, beef, peas, beans,potatoes, lentils, rice, rice dumplings always in the form of soup. this fare becameso monotonous that I soon ate almost no dinner at all except for a bit of head cheeseand when that was gone a piece of ham which I bought from the cook. Our evening mealconsisted of tea and ship's bread. The food on this ship was really quite good, onlythe variety which one has on land was missing.

Best of all was the fact that I always had plenty of wine, even though I had notbrought any with me. In fact, I soon became acquainted with the two helmsmen, whowere both rather cultured and nice people, especially the second, Reuerman, bornin Frankfurth. These two had opened their hearts to me since I cured the carpenter,supplied me richly with French wine by order of the captain, so they said. I didnot worry myself as to whether this was true or not and accepted it as somethingearned. After I was acquainted with them and with the cabin passengers, I had quitean agreeable existence.

We had six cabin passengers, a merchant from Bremen, a witty jovial fellow; a youngnobleman from prussia named Harpke, who became the one most attached to me, a biggame hunter who had traveled through all of Europe and had a lot of money and whoafterwards made the journey here with me; then a young pastor and his wife and finallya young lady and an elderly spinster, who later turned out to be accomplished gossips.Whenever the weather was reasonable pleasant, this group and a Prussian postal clerkwho also had lodging in the steerage and I sat each evening on the deck of the cabin,which was built on the forward deck, and danced, played, and sang to the accompanimentof my guitar which I had unpacked. Along with this, we usually brewed a mighty bowlof punch, and so we often sat together until two or three o'clock.

After I became acquainted with the helmsmen, I no longer slept in the steerage, butwith them. They had their room behind the cabin with two bunks. When one of themwas on watch I laid myself in his berth and when he was relieved I crawled in theother berth. Every afternoon we had a siesta first with one, then with the otherhelmsmen according to which one was on duty. The cabin boy had to bring us severalcups of excellent coffee with which we smoked a fine Bremer cigar and did some reading.

So I was as well off as if I had been quartered in the cabin, while all the steerage passengers, as well as those between decks,were soon infested with vermin. Once I almost became seasick from sheer disgust;when I recently had to perform the forceps operation I became so cered with liceand fleas that I scarecely knew what to do. I, therefore, went to the boat whichhangs at the rear end of the ship and peeled myself bare, and after putting on cleanapparel had hot sea-water poured over my other clothes, but all day I shivered fromtime to time as though water were being poured over my head. Since then I have takencare not to get more such unwelcome guests.

I had a great deal of fun fishing, which was done mostly with harpoons. The firstfish we caught was a porpoise which is about six to eight feet long and rushes byahead of the ship, in great herds. These fish have a snout almost like that of apig, and when they swim, they shoot up out of the water and back again always inarcs and with tremendous speed. Due to the rapidity of their movement their longflappers seem like ears so they look very much like a pig. They are caught with harpoons.The harpoonist with his harpoon, stands under the bowsprit because they always swimclose to the front of the ship. The rope to which the harpoon is fastened passesthrough a windlass overhead and when the fish is hit it is pulled up. In this mannerwe took five. Their flesh, prepared like beefsteak, tastes very good.

By means of the first one we caught, we took an enormous shark. The porpoise hadbeen skinned and drawn, and had been hung in the water alongside the ship to keepthe meat from spoiling. Near noon it became calm and presently it was rumored thatthere was a shark nearby. Everyone rushed to the rail, the harpoons were fetchedand large hooks baited with prok were thrown over the side. The shark swam majesticallyback and forth alongside the ship then approached more closely, sniffed at the porpoiseand then went off a short distance. Swimming with him above his back or under hisbelly was a little blue and white striped fish, about a foot long which the peoplecall the shark's pilot. After a time, he returned and grabbed the porpoise. A passengerpulled it up so that the shark's head appeared above the water and the two tassledlike two dogs over a bone yet the shark did not stop until he had torn off a goodsized fragment. Then he went away and we thought that he would not come back. A quarterhour later, I sat with Harpke in the stern of the boat, when he suddenly returned.We called the captain and he began to lure him with the biated hook. The shark swamaround it several times, sniffed at the pork and finally grabbed the piece with thehook in it. he scarecely had it in his mouth when the captain quickly jerked theline so that the hook protruded through the upper jaw. Now he was hoisted somewhatand two slings were fastened about his tail and so he was pulled up on the forwarddeck. Here he thrashed until he had completely entangled himself in the rope. Thena sailorwent to him and slit his belly with a knife. He measuredten and one-half feet (Rheinisch) from his head to the tip of his tail

Later we caught a real young one which was only two feet long. We also caught a sunfish. It was rather calm when he was sighted. The boat was immediately unfastened.The camptain, the second helmsman and five sailors equipped with numerous harpoonsgot into it and went after him quick as an arrow. It is a very helpless fish, whichswims very slowly and remains always on the surface of the water, because it cannotdive. It was soon overtaken and was energetically harpooned, and because of the factthat it had an exceedingly strong hide they hurled harpoons at it seven or eighttimes before it was securely held. What a pretty sight that was as the little boatdanced about on the waves with the sailors in their red shirts, the flashing of theirlong oars in the sun, and the many swerves which they had to make because the fishturned and took off in another direction after every throw that strock him. Theywere perhaps a half hour distant and we watched through spy glasses. Finally we sawthe captain do a real power throw, and then the sailors waved their caps in the air.Now we saw, too, how they halted and tied the fish.

It was high time the chase ended for at that moment a light breeze came up and ifthe sails had not been severely trimmed they would not have caught up with us. Wesaw the sailors exeert themselves to the utmost, but in spite of this it was perhapsthree quarters of an hour before they reached us. They were fearfully exhausted whenthey arrived and trembled at every joint from the exertion. After they, along withtheir boat were hoisted aboard, the fish was also brought in. He was frightfullyheavy because when lowered onto the forward he broke in the sides of the quarterdeck. It is a strangely built creature, almost circular and quite smooth. Its lengthis about four feet, its height about three and three quarters and its thickness aboutone foot. On its back and under its belly it has large fins. Just behind its gillflaps, it has little flippers so that when it swims it falls from one side to theother and moves himself forward very slowly.

In addition to these we saw many other large fish, which it was impossible to hunt,because they were too big. Grampus whales and many other varieties.

Otherwise I think of nothing else worth telling that happened during our ocean voyage,because eventually life on the ship becomes quite monotonous. In the end, the tediummade me positively vacant and simple-minded so that I could do no intelligent thinking.It is really no wonder that the inmates of Pennsylvania prisons become crazy andsimpleminded. All remnant of amusement was exhausted, nothing new occurred, and youcan imagine how interesting life must have been. Two days before we arrived in NewYork, the long expected pilot appeared on board and with his coming we got a favorablewind.

On the second morning after the arrival of the pilot, we finally saw the long desiredcoast of America spread out before our eyes, splendidly illuminated by the morningsun. New life came into the entire group. The steerage paid its tribute to the seawith straw ticks and other articles which were no longer needed. Everything was againenergetically repacked and Sunday clothes were brought forth. One who had formerlyseen the steerage passengers in their dirty ragged clothes would not have recognizedthem again, so fine and noble had they dressed themselves. Before we entered NewYork Bay the wind suddenly died down so that we were once more becalmed.

In a short time a steamship came rushing toward us, to tow us into bay. The steamshipshere are built quite differently than in Germany. The engine stands on the deck andone always sees the iron walking beam, to which the connecting rod is attached, goup and down. The steamer halted near us and offered its services. Here, I had myfirst opportunity to get acquainted with the American trading spirit. The Americanoffered to transport us for seventy-five dollars. Our captain offered twenty fivedollars. The American immediately took off, but before he had moved fifty steps hestopped and requested sixty dollars. This was not taken up so away he went. In thiswise he came and departed eight times reducing his demands a little each time. Thisdickering continued for perhaps an hour and I became quite disgusted with all thislow trading. As the fellow came up for the ninth time, there arose a light breezeand he had to take his leave with the door slammed in his face.

Our entrance into New York Bay was perhaps one of the finest things I have ever seen-- no doubt this view of the land so long denied us had something to do with my feelings.The entrance to the bay is quite narrow, about one quarter of an hour wide. Highstone forts with their threatening cannon, looked down on us from both sides. Beyondthese the bay gradually widens, and is lined with magnificent country homes and gardens.The farther one travels, the more the bay widens, offering ever more splended views.Directly ahead, one sees the city of New York, which extends into the bay like anequilateral triangle, with its many towers and churches surrounded by a forest ofmasts from which the flags of all nations flutter in the breeze in coloful variation.

The city is washed by the waters of the Hudson River, which divides itself into twobranches above the city and thus embraces it. We sailed into the northern branch,the so-called North River, accompanied by a swarm of small boats which had broughtthe agents of German hotel keepers, aboard. In all my life I have not heard suchprattling nor seen such importunity as these fellows posses; they were after me,took, but I sent them off in a hurry.

We cast our anchor in mid-river because other ships must make room before we coulddock at the wharf. This took quite a long time, meanwhile we had considerable companyon our ship, mostly German, who were expecting friends or relatives. The first acquaintancesI met was a son of Schade's Ede of the new alley and lower market, whom I, however,mistrusted somewhat because he approached me in the company of a solicitor and recommendedto me a certain hotel at the best German establishment. But later I discovered thatI was entirely mistaken because others also recommended this house to me, and I lodgedthere during my stay in New York. He lived only a few houses away from me and laterhe and I went around a good deal together in New York.

Since I and my companions found things too tiresome on the ship we went to the Cityin a small boat to a German hotel keeper (Wirth) named Bick. As soon as I felt thesolid earth under my feet, I got a great appetite for roast and beer. We virtuallyran through the streets to find the land fare which had so long been denied us. Thefirst question put by each of us "can we get Bavarian beer here?" was answerwith "yes" but how great was the difference between Bavarian beer hereand in Germany.

But though it was bad, even the worst beer reminds me clearly of my former home.I moved as in a dream, in the upper market place, through the dark alley to the lowermarket place, then turned to Schaders Hans and in passing took a quick look at thestore windows and sneaked out of the "Griesmerschen" gate into the clubgarden. From the garden gate, I saw under the pear tree, a blue print dress and nextot it on the table a white basket. I heard joyous laughter and emered from beneaththe birches and pines -- there they all stand before me, the old familiar faces smokingtheir little pipes or contentedly drinking down golden rivers of beer. It was a delightfuldream and when I was aroused by my neighbors, I felt very ill at east. I saw everythingso clearly, every single house which I passed even thought I did not look that wayyet it stood there in my imagination. i saw the broad cobblestones, the differentnumbers of the whiskey and liquor taverns, I heard the various voices of the people.My dream which I had with eyes open as though I were actually there, frequently remindedme thereafter of the poem by Chamisso, "the Castle of Boucourt", "Idreamed myself back to childhood (Ich träumt als kind mich Zurück).

I was soon separated from my melancholy and nostalgic thoughts by the joyful announcementthat dinner was ready. Such an attack on the food I have never seen before. The peoplehad to serve us three times. I regaled myself particularly with beef-steak, salad,and potatoes, and for dessert I had rye bread and fresh butter.

The mode of eating is here quite different from that in Germany. At seven in themorning one eats the same as in the evening. Roast, warm and cold, potatoes, usuallyfried ones, other like foods and coffee is served. Of breakfast and four o'clocklunch one knows nothing. At first it seemed strange that one fills one self so fullof food at seven in the morning that one can wait until noon, but one grows accustomedto everything.

Because this hotel did not suit us very well, we returned late in the evening toour ship which had meanwhile remained at the dock, but before hand we took a walkalong Broadway, the principal street of the city. Next day our things were unloadedand I had to remain aboard nearly all day, since it was necessary for me to be onhand and see to it that my belongings were all brought to light, and also becauseone must be present when customs officers make their inspection. The examinationwas very superficial -- I could have smuggled everything imaginable. On the shipI( became acquainted with a young Austrian physician, who had made the trip to Americawith a goodly stipend of travel money in his pocket. I went with him to a Germanhotel, where I found good lodging and food.

That evening I met Hug. Kuchengecker in a German hotel. He had searched everywherefor me and fortunately we met one another. You should have seen how happy he was.I, too, was very glad to see him. I now had someone who could advise and inform mein all matters. Immediately after his arrival, Hugo had found work with a carpenterfrom Gnidmar by the name of Freitag. During the days I spent in New York, Hugo escortedme about among Frankenburgers. We were at both Beyers, the sons of the Beyer on the"Rheine". They both have large bakeries, and are becoming wealthy. Theyinquired most particularly about you dear father, told about the cures you had effectedupom them and proposed that I remain there. They would support me as much as possibleand provide me with enough patients. I also met the two sons of Zurmuhe here, theelder works for Beyer, the younger has disposed of his meat market and has becomea carpente

*Ida was his stepmother nee Ida Henrietta CharlotteKuchenbecker.

**Oberon -- In medieval mythology was king of the Fairies.

Cedarburg, Washington County (Wis)
November 21, 1851

My dear precious Carl:

Do not take it amiss that I am so tardy in answering your last letter, because Iam convalescing, and am still quite weak as you can see from y bad and shaky writing.I received your good letter three or four weeks ago and had it in the house at leasteight days before I opened it, because the physician who happened to be there whenI received it forbade my reading it, because he noticed that it excited me greatly.so I had to languish for eight days before I could give myself permission to openit.

I have been sick abed for twelve or thirteen weeks, first with gall fever which attackedmy nerves so that my doctor, as I learned later, had given me up. And in the endI had ague. Now I am again quite well, but I must be very careful of myself so thatI will not have a relapse.

I am sorry and angry to learn from your letter that you have not received news fromme, and this grieves me so much more because you may think that this is due to pureneglect on my part; an evil star seems to reign over my letter. Your conjecture regardingthe franking of the letter appears to me to be the only possible reason why my letterdid not reach you.

There is now a regulation which provides that all letters sent to Germany by steamermust be prepaid to the European border. Now we sit here in the West and get mailafter it has been detained in Washington. I have franked my letters, because I wasof the opinion that they would surely reach you. Your _________ letter, I did notanswer until six or seven weeks later which was very, very wrong, but was causedby the fact that your letter arrived in the midst of our honemoon, but more aboutthat later. Now as to my mode of living here, to write about which is almost monotonous,because I have already done it so often.

Concerning my journey here I can tell you but little, because it has almost leftmy memory due to the terrible tedium I have since experienced. I went from Casselto Bremen in three days, there I had to remain several days which was not unpleasant,because I spent the time in Linchen Kuchenbecker's company. Also through her kindnessI had the pleasure of hearing Jenny lind. On the eighteenth of June (1846) I boardedthe ship Adler, on the morning of the nineteenth we were at sea, ont he third daywere were between Dover and Calais. Then a Southwester arose with considerable rain,in fact, miserable stormy weather which made us tack around in the Channel for eightdays. After we had finally escaped from this odious sleeve, we were delayed for daysby alternate periods of calm and contrary winds until we took the pilot on boardand with him we receied a spendid East wind, and although we were still a considerabledistance from New York, it brought us there in two days.

My life aboard ship was very uneventful and awfully monotonous. The frightful steeragein which I had purchased my berth, sight unseen, had the honor of enjoying my presencefor one night only. I would rather have slept ont he deck than in this storehouseof people. Later I slept with the helmsmen who had a nice little room with two berthsin the cabin which is on the upper deck. For this courtesy and comfort I could thankthe stormy weather in the Channel. The ship's carpenter fell from the great lifeboat to the deck and dislocated the upper joint of his left femur. He was carriedto the cabin and with the help of the sailors I was able to set it quickly. Aftersixteen or seventeen days he was again in the mast. Thereby I became acquainted withthe captain, who said he would arrange for me to sleep in the cabin. However, I knewthat every berth was taken and slept with the helmsmen. They had alternate four hourduty and so I changed berths every four hours. The second helmsman, a Frankfurher,became much attached to me, provided as much wine and beer as possible and so I hadto go into the steerage only when someone there was ill, and then always broughtback a large portion of lice. Aside from the capture of several porpoises, whichtasted very good when prepared as beefsteak, and then a shark ten and one-half feetin length, nothing occurred that was worth mentioning.

On the fifty-second day at five o'clock in the morning, we had our first glimpseof the American coast, beautifully illuminated by the rising sun. There is probablynothing finer than the ride into New York Bay, however, one's appreciation is perhapsdue to the sight of land which has been so long denied. The entrance to the Bay isquite narrow; about one quarter of an hour wide. On both sides fortifications withtheir cannon look down on one from well-wooded cliffs. Beyond these the Bay widensgradually and is surrounded by the most magnificent country homes and gardens. Thefrather one goes, the wider grows the Bay, and offers ever new and changing splendors;directly ahead one sees the city of New York which extends into the Bay in the formof a triangle, with its many towers and churches surrounded by a forest of mastsfrom which fly the flags of all nations in every imaginable color. We entered onthe north side of the city and went into the city as quickly as possible in orderto enjoy fresh meat and vegetables once again, and you can imagine that our attackon these was not bad. I remained in New york for eight days, but saw little of thecity, because the heat was too great. We had mostly 110 to 113 degrees Fahrenheit.On Broadway which is the princial street of New York, I saw two men fall down fromsunstroke; one died instantly, the other was taken to a hospital. i met these acquaintances:Hugo ____ the two Beyers sons (B from the Raun) and the bailiff Zurmühl's boys.The Beyers were very friendly to me and asked me to stay with them and they wouldin the mean time help me develop a satisfactory practice. However, my desire foradventure would not let me accept this extremely favorable offer . . . . I have greatlyregretted this. How comfortable I could be now instead of carrying the burden ofthis country practice among all types of people.

After a stay of eight days in New York, I started my trip in the company of threeyoung people whose acquainance I made there. We traveled by steamer to Albany andby railroad to buffalo. Here we had to wait for four days, because the steamers wereall over-crowded. We used this time for a visit to Niagara Falls. A little steamertook us there in a short time, and we landed on the American side. From a distancewe heard the dull thunder of the falls, and several miles away we could observe thethick vapor which forever rises from it like smoke from a huge staw fire. To describethe beauty of Niagara Falls will proabably always remain an unaccomplished undertaking.For the grandeur of this spectacle does not permit itself to be captured in wordsnor can it be depicted with the paint brush. Man, the lord of creation, feels himselfimmeasurably small and insignificant in the presence of such exalted Nature, at leastthat is how it affected me, and most of the others who saw it were likewise impressed.

After three or four days we left buffalo and traveled over the Lakes in favorableweather. I might say incidentally that I expected these to be much more romantic,the shores are mostly flat, no sign of hills, and if they were not overgrown withwoods, they would offer a very pasture-like view. Without mishap we reached Milwaukiethe principal city, that is the largest city in Wisconsin, very picturesquely situatedon both shores of the milwaukie River, which enters Lake Michigan at this point.At that time the city had but few buildings compared with the present; in 1839 therewas only a log cabin, when I arrived (1846) the population was nine thousand soulsand according to the last census this has increased to twenty-four thousand. Themain streets along the River are all built up with fine brick houses. Where oncethe woodman in his canoe hunted ducks, there now stand the finest store buildings.The streets have been filled in by the removal of the ground from nearby hills. Thecity already has a railroad and five plank roads which bring her the products andthe trade of the more remote districts.

I remained in Milwaukie about furteen days and during this time (manuscript damaged),we planned a trip to visit a certain (Dr.) Lüning* with whom we had become acquainted.He had the notion of building a mill on the Cedar River (Cedar Creek), a stream whichflows into the Milwaukee River. We used his invitation to get up a hunting partyand roamed around for three days and three nights during which time we lived on dovesand grouse until we finally arrived in Cedarburg.

This little place consisted at that of a newly erected flour mill, a store, a hotel,and three log houses. naturally, we went to the hotel to refresh ourselves with anoon meal and to enquire about Lüning. The landlord, a Kurbesse from Rotenburg**,asked about our circumstances and when he heard that I was a physician, he advisedme to settle down here, because many Germans lived here and there was no doctor tobe found within twenty miles. I made a quick decision because I had only twenty dollarsleft, returned to Milwaukee, got my things and in a few days had plenty to do, atwhich time the little pharmacy of C. M. Demann did me good service. I had the goodfortune to be immediately called upon for several surgical operations which turnedout well -- an amputation of five toes, and a light hernia opertion.

During the first days after my arrival I became acquainted with the young son ofthe elder boclo who had been roaming around in Milwaukee all summer, was ill andwithout surplus funds. I asked him to join me and had him with me for two years,during which time I dispelled his tedium by teaching him how to dispense medicinewhich has not provided him with a sure living. He had received an inviation froma Milwaukee physician to look after the latter's pharmacy for half the proceeds.Thereby he saved considerable money and now has his own pharmacy here. But to returnto my story.

I resided in a small room in the hotel which was my living room, bedroom, and pharmacycombined. For this I paid fourteen shilling or one and three-fourths dollars perweek. During this time Boclo and I often suffered from homesickness, because we hadno company and no diversion except hunting, which I soon had to give up, becausepatients continued to come while I was away on a hunt, the same fate that Baus had.

In the summer of 1847 I bought my first horse which was a great relief, what withbad roads and a wide spread, that is, far distant practice. In the same year i beganto build my house, a so-called frame house as they are customarily built here wherethere is not building stone.*** The entire house is constructed of boards. Beamsthree or four inches thick cut at the saw mill, form the skeleton. Over these, boards,one-quarter of an inch thick and six inches wide which are likewise cut in the sawmill, are nialed like roof tiles, one over-lapping another. The roof is coverd withone-inch boards and over these are nailed shingles of leather or cedar wood. Flooring,windows and doors are here made by machine and are inexpensive.

*Dr. Frederick A. Luning who later moved to Milwaukeeand in 1860 had his office at the corner of Main and Oneida streets.

**Conrad Horneffer who built and operated Cedarburg's first hotel.

***Later much fine limestone was quarried near Cedarburg and many stone houses datedfrom the middle fifties are standing today. Among these is the five story stone millbuilt by Hilgen and Schroeder in 1855.